Home, Sweet Home... but "The Wide, Wide West" is Grand

We are all Home, Sweet Home, safe and sound, and tired but happy. Ruth is back in St. Albans, U.K., Judy and Sherry are back in humid, rainy Connecticut. It was a magnificent trip west. We have memories to cherish always. Thank you Ruth, for wanting to see the west. It was vast and grand, and did we ever cover territory: miles and miles, and such a diversity in landscape, ecosystems and climates.

The National Parks Senior Pass is the best $10 I have ever spent. It is good for life, and covers the entry fees for the card holder's vehicle and its occupants. North Carolina storyteller, Donald Davis, tells a hilarious story about his first real job. He calculated his earnings hour by hour as his first week of work progressed and was horrified when he finally got his first check at the end of the week, that it didn't match his expectations. THEY'd stolen part of his money! His father explained about taxes, and brought home the tax code and told Donald to read through it until he found something he really liked, and to thereafter consider that his taxes were going to fund that project. Donald Davis decided that he really liked the idea of the National Parks. He concluded his story saying that he and his wife are on the road much of the year, but never far from home, as they take a little time to visit "their property" in every state - and their "homes" in the National Parks. We howled listening to him telling his story as we drove to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The same CD included his tale of their mule trip to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back. It was a perfect intro to the National Parks and the Grand Canyon for Ruth.

WE flew to Denver, and drove 3100 miles in 16 days, not counting the miles covered on bus transits and tours, or off roading with Drew in Canyonlands or the lunch/dinner excursions driven by our hosts. It was a lot of driving for two weeks, but we switched off driving and navigating. Thank goodness Judy was willing and able to drive the cliff edged mountain roads that made Sherry white knuckled and pale. We listened to three and a half of Lillian Jackson Braun's The Cat Who... audio books on our long drives, while ooohing and aaahing over the ever-changing landscapes.

We traversed parts of six states: Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Utah and Arizona. We located license plates from 48 states - lacking only Rhode Island and Vermont, but we rode up to Pike's Peak with a Vermonter from Burlington, and figured a real live person, counted at least as half of a license plate! We also saw two Mexican states, and 4 Canadian provinces, as well as numerous variously designated U.S. Government vehicles. It made some of the long drives more fun and brought back memories of childhood family trips.

We visited 10 National Parks and Monuments: Grand Tetons, Yellowstone, Zion (Kolab in the NW corner and the main Southern area), North Rim of the Grand Staircase, Bryce, Escalante Grand Staircase, Capitol Reef. Arches, Canyonlands (White Rim and Island in the Sky areas) and Rocky Mountain National Park, and drove through a multitude of National Forests along the way.

National Parks are under the auspices of the Dept. of the Interior - and must be left as nature provides. National Monuments and Forests are under the auspices of the Dept. of Agriculture, and can be managed by one of several federal agencies: the National Park Service, United States Forest Service, U. S. Fish and Wildlife Service, or the Bureau of Land Management. National Monuments receive less funding and less protection for wildlife than the national parks. Wilderness areas, which can include and extend beyond national parks, monuments, and national forests, can have even more protection than a national park, but often allow hunting. National Forests and Monuments can be designated as multi-purpose use areas, allowing recreational use, grazing, lumbering, mining, drilling, etc. Underbrush and fallen trees can be cleared in them, unlike in the National Parks, where they must be left as is. Interesting differences, all with intent to protect and preserve historical and natural resources for future generations. Hurrah! The government is doing something right.

We visited several State and City Parks: Upper and Lower Mesa Falls on Henry's Fork of the Snake River in Idaho is part of  the Targhee National Forest; Temple Square with the Mormon Tabernacle, Convention Centers and buildings, Lion House and Beehive House; and This is the Place Heritage Park and Village are in Salt Lake City, Utah (where Sherry was startled to find a Dunwoodey Cabinet and Chair Shop!!!); Kodachrome State Park with its unique sedementary pipes is in Cannonville, Utah; and the Garden of the Gods is in Colorado Springs, Colorado.

Though moose, big-horned sheep, pika and marmot proved illusive, we delighted in seeing so much other wildlife: wolf, black bear, grizzly bear, bison, mule deer, elk, pronghorn, coyote, prairie dogs, magpies, ravens, hawks, and hummingbirds. Herds of long horned cattle, horses, mules, donkeys, black angus and other cattle, llama, and even goats kept us alert as we searched the landscape for wildlife. We were surprised by an unlikely petting zoo in the middle of nowhere that included a zebra, ostrich, rhea, llama, alpaca, and peacocks. Lesser chipmunks and small cheeky squirrels accosted us and begged in different areas.

The botany was as diverse as the zoology, though we were less able to identify most. Rubber Rabbitbrush may have caused some of Judy's allergy sensitivities. Lodgepole pines of the Tetons and Yellowstone differed from the ancient gnarled bristlecone pines of Bryce and Zion, and from the ubiquitous sage and junipers of the deserts, and the splendid towering Colorado Blue Spruce. Throughout we saw the immense, old cottonwoods which proclaimed water and thus life to the Mormon pioneers, and best of all the white or silver trunked Quaking Aspens which were changing into their gleaming golden fall dress as we navigated the hairpin turns into the higher altitudes. Aspens are strange in that each group of trees, a colony, are clones of each other, and all share one single root structure and are thus considered one plant.

I do not have sufficient knowledge of all the geology we saw to describe it well. Suffice it to say we were utterly, mind-boggled by the size, age, diversity, range of colors and hues, shapes, mass, types of stone, the layers, the upheavals, the surfaces, the "desert varnish"...by everything. The areas we visited and  traveled through are a geologists dream come true. I want to look for a geology course to audit. Those mountains and rocks, towering above us, or falling away far below us, certainly put one in one's place!

We were careful, took precautions, and coped well with the high altitudes. We drank lots of water and took aspirin alternatives to avoid altitude problems - which was wise as we were between a mile to two miles up most of the time and up to 12,000 feet at several points, and at the end had many of Colorado's fifty-two 14,000+ foot peaks around us.

We have eaten all sorts of delectable foods - incredible toasted pepito (pumpkin seed) encrusted trout, elk chili, buffalo/bison, elk, quail, Rocky Mountain oysters, oat-crusted french toast, bilberries & bumbleberries, wondrous Utah and Colorado peaches and more. We did lots of sharing, and tried to include an afternoon ice cream/chocolate break when possible.

We thank dear friends and relatives for opening their homes to us. Thank you Scott and Julie, Chris and Debby, and Linda and Ted. You made us feel so at home. It was wonderful to be able to spend time with you. Thank you.

We'll close this blog with a final few pictures. We hope traveling vicariously with us will encourage you to go see the incredible wonders of our country. We are so blessed to have the freedom to travel, and to have these magnificent parks, monuments, forests protected for us and for future generations. Hey, I don't mind paying my taxes so much anymore. Like Donald Davis, my taxes are going to support the National Parks!

Linda Hoster and Judy Petersen in Centennial, CO

A wagon wheel bench is perfect for looking out at the Rockies.

Ted and Linda Hoster and their view of the Rocky Mountains

Denver International Airport

Airborne and homeward bound.

The Rockies with Friends

Ruth wanted to see the Rocky Mountains, and so we capped her last day in the USA with a trip up to Estes Park, and the Rocky Mountain National Park and altitude treatments of about 12,000 feet. Linda Hoster joined the Three Wise Women, as we traveled along Trail Ridge Road, the highest paved road in the United States. We even had snow flakes in the air on our trip back down the mountain. We saw herds of elk at a distance, had cheeky lesser chipmunks begging by the hoard at one of the view points, saw the frost tamed flowers and botanicals above the treeline on the tundra, and a number of glimmering 14,000+ foot snow capped peaks.

Sherry André, Linda Hoster, And Judy Petersen in Estes Park, CO

Three of the Lesser Chipmunks

It's Wednesday night, Ruth is winging her way back to England. We saw Denver International Airport's vivid blue stallion with burning red eyes as we entered the airport. Judy and I have had a great evening with Linda and Ted Hoster, their son Matt and his wife, Katie, and their adorablae granddaughter, Hayden, 21 months. Tomorrow we fly back to the East arriving home late, so final blog will be on Friday.

Linda Hoster with granddaughter Hayden

Linda, Hayden & Matt Hoster

Back in Colorado (updated)

Sorry for not posting a blog yesterday, but spent the day driving across Colorado from Grand Junction to Vail for a quick visit.  We then headed south down to Breckenridge - what an appealing little village - would like to have had time to stop and wander, but we kept on going south and East. We had glorious views of Pike's Peak as we got closer to Colorado Springs. We decided on skipping the Florissant Fossil beds, in favor of arriving at The Great Southwest, owned by Sherry's nephew, Chris Jones, before he closed he shop. Each of us did some damage coming away with lovely Native American bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings. Sherry and Judy wore some of their new Native American art to dinner with Chris and Debby Jones at the Elephant Bar - great food. With no easy wi-fi connection and tired after the drive and altitude, we finessed the update last night. So here it is for yesterday.

Chris & Debbie Jones, Judy Petersen & Ruth Huggett

Debby had to leave early for school, she is an elementary school principal in Colorado Springs, but Chris fixed us a wonderful breakfast before we left their beautiful home with easier directions to the Manitou Springs to Pike's Peak Cog Railroad. We were glad we'd made our reservations months ago, as the train was sold out, and had a long waiting list. It was a great trip up from about 6000 feet to 14, 210 and a temperature drop from the mid 40s to 27º at the top with a windchill of 17º. The quaking Aspens were definitely taking on their golden fall coats as we climbed some 800 feet. We were very glad to have our layers of fleeces and jackets, hats and mittens on the snow and ice covered ground at the top. The vistas went forever - to Oklahama, New Mexico, and Arizona as well as Colorado. We took pictures, breathed in the cool, crisp air, and indulged in their world famous donuts and hot cocoa, before taking the return trip down.  Though we are still missing Vermont and Rhode Island license plates, a man sharing our row of seat was from Burlington VT, and we decided he counted at least half a license plate!

27º/17º wind chill at the summit of Pike's Peak

Manitou Springs to Pike's Peak Cog Railroad at the Peak

The Quaking Aspens are changing color at high altitudes.

We drove up and down Old Colorado City before going to the Garden of the Gods. Judy and I have been here several time before, but it is Ruth's first trip. The Garden of the Gods is still as beautiful as ever, even jaded as we are after our all our incredible sights of "rocks" in Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Utah and Arizona during the past week. The lovely red rocks glowed in the sunlight.

We stopped at the Air Force Academy before leaving the Colorado Springs area. It is a huge, beautiful campus, with the Cadet Chapel spires reaching for the sky. It is as stunning inside as out.

Completing our drive to the Denver area, we arrived at Linda and Ted Hoster's in Centenniel, CO, unpacked, talked, traded granddaughter pictures, and changed for dinner at the Fort in Morrison, CO, a half hour away. There, the five of us were joined by Sherry's friends, Linda and Tom Morris, of Lakewood. Linda and Sherry have been "sisters" since junior high! It's been about a decade since we last saw each other. Way too long.  We had a splendid meal, with all sorts of western specialties from guacamole to wild game: buffalo empanadas, Rocky Mountain oysters (bison testicles), to bison steaks, elk chops, grilled quail, salmon and trout. The Fort makes a bit of a tadoo about birthdays (five of us with in two weeks - both Hosters, both Morris, and me) and retirements (both Judy and Ruth) - ceremonial bison or coyote headdresses, Indian drums, and special deserts and candles. It made for a hilarious end to the evening. (The blogger has rejected those pictures - probably a good thing!! - Whoops, the pictures just had not transferred properly - so here we are in all our "finery!)

Ted Hoster, Sherry André, Linda & Tom Morris

Ruth Huggett, Judy Petersen & Linda Hoster

Here is what happens when Greenwich Retired Media Staff go West - Judy Petersen, Linda Hoster & Sherry André

Tomorrow Linda Hoster will join Ruth, Judy and Sherry to go up to Estes Park and the Rocky Mountain National Park before we deliver Ruth to Denver International Airport for her evening flight back to Heathrow/London, U.K.
It is hard to believe our incredible trip, about 3,000 miles is almost over. Judy and Sherry return to Connecticut on Thursday. It has been wonderful beyond all our hopes. Now if we could just see Bighorn Sheep tomorrow!!!

Having a personal chauffeur and off-roading driver is the way to go!

We keep saying it can't get better, and it keeps proving us wrong. Judy's son, Drew, Emergency Services Coordinator for Archeletto County, Colorado, joined us in Moab last night. We got off early, stashed our rental car in the Arches Visitor Center parking area and joined forces in Drew's 4-wheel drive car. He took us through the wonders of Arches National Park in the morning. What gorgeous scenery there is along the Moab Fault. The Arches has over 2000 arches, we only saw a small portion of them, but were mightly impressed.

After an early lunch back in Moab - we can recommend the Peace Tree - we headed out to Canyonlands, to off road on the White Rim and Island in the Sky area. I don't think any of the Three Wise Women quite knew what we were getting ourselves in for. Thank goodness Drew is a wonderful driver and competent with his 4-wheel drive vehicle, because we needed it as we followed the road out into the canyon lands, and switched back and forth - it seemed like a dozen or more times  - as we threaded the narrow road across the mountain face, navigated the hairpin turns and went back and forth gradually descending to the floor of the canyon. The Colorado River still lay well beneath us on lower level plateaus. I did myself proud, and got out each time we stopped and took pictures looking down the precipices. (Chris André, these are NOT pictures you will be comfortable seeing.) Drew didn't tell us as we went down, that we would have to navigate it all again as we left, climbing back up all the switchbacks. Hurrah for Drew! He gave us an unforgettable experience, and a taste of off-roading. We are all so glad we did it, but are not sure we would ever do it again!!! We certainly would never drive it ourselves, and were so glad he was willing to join us and give us the experience. He drove us 114 miles, morning and afternoon, through more mind-boggling scenery and terrain. Thank you, Drew.

We returned to Moab for ice cream, picked up our rental car, and caravanned together across scenic 128 E from Maob towards the Colorado border, driving along the Colorado River much of the way. We stopped at Fisher Tower, where Drew has climbed a number of times. Better he than we, Wise Women Three! Stunning cathedral-like rock formations against a brilliant blue sky! Then back on the road east, we passed one lone pronghorn, and two prairie dogs, too fast to catch with our cameras - to add to our single lizard at Arches. We saw a variety of birds, but were not close enough to identify them. The Bighorn Sheep prove elusive!

We pulled into Grand Junction, Colorado about 6:30 p.m., checked in and then went out for a great dinner at Outback Steakhouse. Now to check out the pictures to add to this and get them uploaded for your viewing pleasure. On across Colorado tomorrow, past Vail and Breckenridge to Colorado Springs. We are looking forward to seeing Chris and Debbie Jones there tomorrow evening, and hopefully visiting Chris' fantastic gallery, The Great Southwest, on our way in, time permitting. If not it will be on our Tuesday itinerary.

Oops! What do you mean, this is the wrong road?

We awoke to pouring rain in Torrey, Utah, but by the time we’d had breakfast and packed the car, it slackened, and after a half hour on the road stopped, for the most part, though we had intermittent showers all day, from sprinkles to downpours. We spent the morning in Capitol Reef National Park, named for the white dome so similar to our Capitol building in Washington, D. C. The Visitor Center movie reminded us, that though the park is a high desert, it is, and always has been, shaped by water. The sun cooperated as we traveled along a 10 mile scenic road through a portion of the park, and back again, and then on to Rt. 24 across the narrow width of the 100 mile long “Reef.” The diversity of the rock formations amazed us, as one side of the road thrust up 4-7,000 feet above the other side. We crossed  water swollen gullies rushing with muddy waters from the last two days cloud bursts which have helped exceed their average annual rainfall of 7 inches by several inches! Did the hurricanes follow us out? Many of the unimproved roads had been closed, several because of the ice on the roads from last night's freeze in higher areas.

It was lunchtime before we left Capitol Reef, but it took us more than an hour east of the park to find a spot to stop for lunch. Coming out of the little restaurant in the middle of desolate nowhere, we turned back onto the same road, and somehow missed the turning, or non-turning, to take us north to I-70. We were so absorbed in listening to our third “The Cat Who…” audio book, we’d driven almost 40 miles before we discovered we were going south towards Glen Canyon, Lake Powell, Dirty Devil River, Colorado River, and the White Canyon instead of north. However it was extraordinarily beautiful, so despite the hours of extra driving, it was well worth it.  

We arrived in Moab before dark, where Judy's son, Drew, joined us for dinner. He'll take us to Arches National Park and then off-roading in Canyonlands National Park tomorrow. Then it is good-bye to Utah, and on to Colorado for all of us.